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So far, this surf season has been one for facing fears . Anyone who tells you that they've never get afraid when they surf is either lying to you, lying to themselves, or not pushing themselves hard enough. I feel afraid, at least a little bit, every single time I paddle out. Sometimes I'm afraid of the sea itself, and most of the time I'm afraid I'll make a fool out of myself. I used to be really afraid of falling, until I realized that if I'm not falling, I'm not surfing.